Before we dive in, let’s set the stage. Argentina is a behemoth, ranking as the eighth-largest country globally. Its breathtaking landscape is a tapestry of contrasts, featuring towering Andes mountains, majestic glaciers, thunderous waterfalls, vast expanses of flat plains, and a stunning Atlantic coastline. With so much to explore, it would take a lifetime to experience everything Argentina has to offer. That said, with three weeks here, you can see a huge amount. This itinerary will cover many of the major highlights, giving you the perfect overview of a fascinating country. Yet, at the same time, it’ll leave you wanting to plan your return visit before you’ve finished your last glass of Malbec or slab of juicy ribeye.
Buenos Aires - 3 Days
Day 1 - Arrival and Orientation
Almost all Argentina journeys begin in the capital, Buenos Aires. Some call it the Paris of the South, others La Ciudad de la Furia (City of Fury). Either way, this pulsating, at times dizzying, city is a wonderful introduction to the country. It’s a place to dine on succulent cuts of meat and catch shows at grandiose theaters, dance tango, party until dawn, and stroll around barrios (neighborhoods) that range from ultra-modern to bohemian.
Take things slow and get a feel for the city with a ride on the hop-on, hop-off Buenos Aires City Bus. If you want to dive straight into the culinary scene, why not sample the old school and new-wave pizzerias or snack on empanadas? Alternatively, check out one of the new foodie hotspots like Chacarita, Villa Crespo, and Villa Devoto.
Day 2 - Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo
Start your first full day in Argentina at El Obelisco. This iconic, 221-foot (67.5-meter) tall monument stands at the intersection of two emblematic avenues: the impossibly wide Avenida 9 de Julio and theater-lined Avenida Corrientes. From here, you can walk along Diagonal Norte to the city’s historic square, Plaza de Mayo. It’s home to major landmarks like the Casa Rosada presidential office, colonial-era Cabildo town hall, and Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral.
Defensa Street leads from Plaza de Mayo into San Telmo, a barrio of cobblestone streets, old-fashioned street lights, centuries-old homes, art galleries, markets, and parrillas (steakhouses). Must-sees here are the San Telmo Market for food, Plaza Dorrego for impromptu tango shows, and MAMBA modern art museum. On Sundays, Defensa Street and Plaza Dorrego turn into a huge outdoor market, with stalls hawking antiques, BA-inspired souvenirs, leather goods, fileteado artwork and much more.
See more with our Ultimate Guide to San Telmo.
Day 3 - Recoleta
With its lavish stately homes and plush hotels, Recoleta is considered by many to be the city’s most affluent neighborhood. Start your day with a stroll along Avenide Alvear, which is arguably the city’s swankiest street. It’s lined with emblematic buildings such as the belle-époque Alvear Palace Hotel and French Embassy, plus the neoclassical Palacio Duhau. Step through the neoclassical gates of Recoleta Cemetery to discover a village-like cemetery home to the ostentatious mausoleums of aristocratic and affluent Argentines, including Eva ‘Evita’ Perón.
From the cemetery, it’s a short walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. This free fine arts museum displays works by renowned names such as El Greco, Peter Paul Rubens and Rembrandt. If it's a weekend or holiday, then stroll around the Feria Plaza Francia artisan and flea market. It’s a good spot to pick up leather souvenirs and handcrafted jewelry and watch musicians and street performers. Also keep an eye out for the Delirio Free Open Air electronic music parties taking place at Plaza República Federativa del Brasil.
Day 4 - Palermo
Palermo is the biggest barrio and one swamped with tourists, hipsters, and long-time residents. There's a good reason for its popularity, however. Nowhere else in the city will you find a bigger concentration of cafés, bars, restaurants, boutiques and galleries, and green spaces. We suggest starting off with the chic food, drinking, and nightlife of Palermo Soho. Like Recoleta, it has a weekend market, which is split into two sections about four blocks apart: Feria Palermo Viejo and Feria Honduras.
Similar to Argentina, you could seemingly spend years in Palermo and always find something new. One option is to check out the modern art exhibitions at MALBA Museum, then uncover the green side of the city at the parks and gardens that make up Parque Tres de Febrero. Others are to explore the life of Eva Perón at the Evita Museum, walk among wildlife at Ecoparque (the former city zoo), and watch horse races at the Hipodromo de Palermo.
Get prepared with our Buenos Aires Basics and Ultimate Guide to Palermo Soho.
Iguazu Falls - 3 Days
Day 5 - Travel from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazu
Catch a morning flight from Aeroparque, the city’s domestic airport, for around a 2-hour trip to Misiones Province, in Argentina’s northeasternmost corner. This is the gateway to Iguazu Falls, one of Argentina’s many natural wonders and arguably the most well-known. The downtown and hotel areas are a half-hour drive from the airport, which means you’ll have the best part of the afternoon to explore. The Hito Tres Fronteras is worth checking out, which marks the triple border between Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay, as is the Güira Oga Wildlife Reserve and Rescue Center.
Day 6 - Argentine Side of Iguazu Falls
Iguazu National Park straddles the river and has sections in both Argentina and Brazil. Spending a day on each side offers different perspectives of the 275 individual waterfalls. The Argentine side is all about up-close encounters with powerful cascades and experiencing the true force of nature. Plan to walk the Lower Circuit and Upper Circuit, then catch the toy train to Devil’s Throat. The park opens at 8 am, so get here as early as possible to see as much as possible.
Day 7 - Brazilian Side of Iguazu Falls
After a day on the Argentine side of the falls, you’ve got a choice to make. Go back and discover more via the Macuco Trail, a 4.3-mile (7-kilometer) out-and-back walk through the jungle that culminates in a swim beneath a waterfall. Or jump on a bus at the city’s main bus terminal (remember your passport) and visit the Brazilian side. Here, you’ll be treated to full frontal panoramas that resemble a virtual reality postcard. Watch out for the raccoon-like coati that are more than willing to steal your packed lunch.
Find out more with our Ultimate Guide to Iguazu Falls.
Salta - 3 Days
Day 8 - Transfer to Salta
As the crow flies, it’s just over 620 miles (1,000 kilometers) to Salta, the capital of Salta Province in arid northwest Argentina. You’ll need to fly via Buenos Aires, so prepare to spend a good part of the day traveling. Salta itself is an interesting city that blends Andean heritage with gaucho (cowboy) culture and Spanish architectural influences. Most likely you’ll arrive mid-to-late afternoon, but make a point to wander around the main square, Plaza 9 de Julio. For your first taste of the local cuisine, and beloved empanada salteña, jump in a taxi to the Patio de la Empanada.
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Buenos Aires Portal to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.