San Telmo: The Ultimate Guide
The mix of architectural beauty, shopping, and dining make it many visitors' favorite barrio.
San Telmo: You’ve read about its history, you’ve heard about its beauty, now let’s find out about its glory. San Telmo is a barrio of cobblestone streets and old-fashioned street lamps; century-old colonial buildings and modern art galleries; antique dealers and flea markets; parrillas and milongas. It’s a neighborhood with a rich and romantic heritage and is closely affiliated with Buenos Aires’ tango culture. It’s also a tourist mecca with a bohemian ambiance and boundless drinking and dining options.
San Telmo is one of the oldest barrios in Buenos Aires and traces its history back to the 17th century. Over the years, shipyard workers, noblemen, European immigrants, and artsy types have left their mark on the barrio's character. The first to arrive were the dockyard workers at a time when the barrio was considered to be a poor area. A Jesuit mission opened in 1708 with the goal of educating impoverished residents. It was short-lived, however, and closed in 1767. In 1806, the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo (San Telmo) launched another failed attempt to provide education. San Telmo is the patron saint of seafarers and the barrio's namesake.
San Telmo's fortunes began to change in the mid-1800s when, following the installation of lights, gas fittings, and sewers, it caught the eye of aristocrats and the well-to-do. They took advantage of cheaper plots of land to build grand mansions and townhouses. Unfortunately, this mini-golden era came to an end in 1871 when an outbreak of cholera forced people to move north to Recoleta and Retiro. San Telmo then experienced a revolution in the late 19th century and early 20th century. The mansions made way for plazas or were converted into apartments. Consequently, waves of European immigrants, artists, and freethinkers moved into the area, hence the multicultural vibe.
Nowadays, San Telmo pays homage to its history and remains a popular tourist spot. It’s a short walk south from the city’s central barrios of Mircocentro, Monserrat, and San Nicolás and is well-connected by buses and the metro. The mix of architectural beauty, shopping, and dining make it many visitors' favorite barrio.
Things to See & Do
A focal point of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego, a square surrounded by bars and restaurants. It’s a great place to sit and watch the world go by or catch an impromptu tango show. This is especially the case on weekends when the square turns into an open-air antiques and handicraft market.
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