Palermo Soho: The Ultimate Guide
Palermo Soho is home to lazy, tree-lined cobblestone streets where new businesses continue to spring up in the old Spanish-style houses and converted warehouses.
Buenos Aires’ largest barrio, Palermo, (by size) beckons expats, vacationers, and an ever-growing number of porteños like moths to a flame. Regardless of where you choose to live/stay, it’s pretty much a foregone conclusion that most of the people you know and meet in the city will live in Palermo. And, if they don’t, you’ll still wind up here to take advantage of the boundless café and restaurants, bars and nightclubs, parks, museums and galleries, shops and artisanal markets.
That’s Palermo in a nutshell. Now let’s concentrate on Palermo Soho. This vibrant area of the bohemian sub-barrio Palermo Viejo sits between the streets Santa Fé, Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba, and Juan B. Justo. This is one of the trendier parts of Palermo (along with Palermo Hollywood) and a favorite haunt of hipsters and designers. It is home to lazy, tree-lined cobblestone streets where new businesses continue to spring up in the old Spanish-style houses and converted warehouses.
The area oozes innovation and is young, fresh, and international. It’s the place to sip a cortado while sitting on the terrace of a chic café; browse market stalls and independent boutiques for the latest fashions; seek out the newest low-key bar; catch up on some work or emails at a coworking space; or simply wander the streets and blend in with the cool crowd.
The area’s name is actually unofficial and stems from a supposed likeness to New York’s Soho neighborhood. If you’ve been to both you can decide for yourself on the similarities!
Things to See and Do
If you aren’t visiting Palermo Soho to eat and drink then you’ll be here because you’ve been told that it’s a shopper’s paradise. Buenos Aires’ finest boutiques are here, from clothing stores and specialists in leather goods to bookstores and wine shops. What makes it all the more appealing is that the shops are expertly set in recycled houses, former warehouses, and elegant old homes. Stroll along Jorge Luis Borges, Gurruchaga, Thames, or Malabia streets and you’ll see what we mean.
Weekends are especially busy in the area when it seems that tourists and Porteños alike don their coolest attire and head to the open-air markets on Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia.
Plaza Serrano is particularly notable because the bars surrounding the square open their doors for independent vendors to showcase their goods. It’s a great spot to look for funky t-shirts, dress shirts and dresses in addition to accessories and handicrafts. Nearby, Plaza Armenia has more of an artisanal focus and you’ll find similar items to those at the Hippy Fair in Plaza Francia, Recoleta. What’s even better is that surrounding both of the markets are myriad bars and restaurants, ideal for taking a break.
Palermo Soho Cafés
Once you’ve fulfilled your shopping desires, there are plentiful cafés to sit at and refuel on caffeine while you admire your purchases or plan your night out.
Starting with a cool-hangout vibe, Cafe Jazmin + Narda Lepes: (El Salvador 4689) is a collaboration between fashion designer Jazmin Chebar and renowned Argentine chef Narda Lepes. Decorated in the distinctive style of Chebar, the cafė is the perfect setting for sampling Lepes-inspired cakes, cookies, bowls, and more filled with seasonal ingredients.
For bean roasting love, check out Cuervo Café (El Salvador 4580). This hip, hole-in-the-wall style spot is a place for the discerning coffee drinker. It invites you to sip on your favorite brew while chatting with the barista or stranger sitting next to you at the service window. Reasonably new to the local coffee scene is Bodo Cafe (Uriarte 1318). It has that classic sidewalk ambiance, and great coffee to go with a tempting offering of freshly-baked sweet and savory treats. Of a similar ilk is Fruto Cafe (Jorge Luis Borges 2021), whose dulce de leche, peanut butter, and matcha alfajores are veritable works of art.
On a busy cobblestone street about halfway between Plaza Armenia and Plaza Serrano, you’ll find La Haus (Costa Rica 4730). Tucked away from a cross-section of lively bars, the menu boasts a variety of sandwiches alongside sugary goodies and all manner of coffee and juices. If you are torn between a healthy or glutinous option with your coffee, Kaldi (Nicaragua 4604) can help you decide. Keep the calories in check with avocado toast and salads, or go all out with giant-sized portions of cakes like red velvet and rogel (layers dulce de leche on layers of flakey crust, topped with meringue).
Palermo Soho Restaurants
From parrillas and burger bars to fine-dining restaurants and fast food joints, Palermo Soho is swarming with dining options.
Starting with the classic Argentine parrilla (grillhouse), Don Julio (Guatemala 4691) has come a long way since its early, unpretentious family-run days. It’s now a hard-hitting, Michelin-star member of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, so expect big tourist-filled queues and big prices. But if it’s your first and only time here, then it’ll be worth it for the asado de tira (short ribs) and entraña (skirt steak) sourced from prime Aberdeen Angus and Hereford cattle.
Another spot that has upped its game is Lo de Jesus/La Malbequeria (Gurruchaga 1406). Impeccable service, big and juicy cuts of meat, and an extensive wine menu (thanks to it joining forces with a once-independent wine bar next door) make for an authentic steakhouse experience here.
You’ll have surely been told about La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099 and 5127), a parrilla with a touch of finesse. Order an eye-popping 800g slab of juicy meat and enjoy it with an array of condiments, such as sweet potato mash and roasted garlic. Tourists love it so expect to stand outside in anticipation until a table becomes free. Fortunately, the waiters are kind enough to hand out free champagne while you wait.
When meat is on the menu, a stop at La Carniceria (Thames 2317) is a must. Meaning “Butcher’s Shop”, it’s exactly as its name suggests, but with elegant twists. Think grilled provoleta cheese with pear and greens, and molleja (sweetbread) bathed in honey, corn, and black garlic. The creators, Germán Sitz and Pedro Peña are also the brains behind Niño Gordo (Thames 1810). This is the place to go if you have a craving for exquisite Asian fusion dishes with a sprinkling of seasonal Argentine ingredients.
In the mood for a quick bite that isn’t an empanada or burger? Chori (Thames 1653) adds a touch of gourmet to the classic Argentine choripan (chorizo sandwich). Rock up, choose between lamb, pork, wild boar, black pudding, or veggie, then opt for a chimichurri or spicy dressings. Or, for a taste of Mexico, Juan Pedro Caballero (Thames 1719) is as genuine as a taqueria and churreria gets in the city.
Returning to the Asian theme, Harakiri de Una (Honduras 4756) is brought to us by celebrity chef Akira Takuchi. Fresh and varied sushi plates are the stars of the show here. There’s also space on the menu for katsudon (pork cutlet rice bowl), cabbage and pork harumaki (spring roll), and other typical dishes. At Sal Restaurante Nórdico (Thames 2450) the best of Asian and Nordic flavors combine for what the restaurant claims is a sensory experience like no other. It’s good to know that all meat dishes are served to the same point, so if you’re the well-done kind of person this won’t be for you.
Just off Plaza Armenia, La Hormiga (Armenia 1680) is one of a chain of restaurants around the city that are recognizable for their huge open spaces, earthy colors, and bustling vibe. This one is a great choice for affordable meat plates to share and hearty, clay oven-cooked dishes like cazuelas (stews).
Casa Barro (Nicaragua 461) also makes the clay oven the star of its menu. Globetrotting plates range from green mole and vegetable bolognese to baos, Wagyu burgers, and prime Tomahawks.
If you like to eat bistro-style then Las Pizarras (Thames 2296) is the place to go. Take a seat and mull over the day’s specials, which blend French and Argentine influences. Expect dishes along the lines of ossobuco cannelloni or rabbit and duck confit. While in the area, don’t miss El Preferido de Palermo (Jorge Luis Borges 2108), which was taken over by the Don Julio team in 2019. Set inside an old general store from 1952, it celebrates its bodegón origins and has a menu packed with classic Argentina small plates. Be sure to try the homemade charcuterie. You can expect a trend-setting foodie crowd here, especially on weekends.
Recently recognized by Michelin for its price/quality, Mengano (José A. Cabrera 5172) is a laid-back bistro-style eatery inspired by the traditional bodegón (canteen). The a la carte menu turns local favorites into tapas-like small plates, such as spicy empanadas and lamb tartare. Sit at the bar and watch the talented cooks work their magic. Also originating from the canteen roots is Aurelia Cantina (El Salvador 5090). This one takes inspiration from the Mexican coast and in doing so offers fresh, flavorsome dishes that focus on the richness of the sea.
On the opposite end of the spectrum is La Rêve Bistró (Uriarte 1901). Here, recognized chef Rodrigo Da Costa presides over a cozy French-style restaurant. Plates to look out for include beef Wellington and quail stuffed with mushroom and bacon.
Palermo Soho Nightlife
Walk along any street between Plaza Armenia and Plaza Serrano and you’ll be sure to find a place that tempts you to take a seat, soak up the atmosphere, and sip on the amber nectar. Beer lovers will appreciate the range of bottled international beers and artisanal brews on tap at The Temple Bar (Costa Rica 4677). On the opposite corner, Piba (Gurruchaga 1796) has 4-5 beers on tap and a food menu that includes sliders, pinchos, and more. Together, they form the nucleus of a drinking scene that kicks off early in the afternoon and continues well into the night.
With pubs on seemingly every corner, a stroll along Gurruchaga Street can easily turn into a bar crawl. A couple of the many options are La Chopperia (Gurruchaga 1711) and Growlers Palermo (Gurruchaga 1450). Elsewhere, Bierhof (Nicaragua 4427) is a big outdoor patio that draws an eclectic crowd that’s friendly to everyone, kids and pets included. If you are more grapes than hops, then there are plenty of wine bars that’ll quench your thirst for the world of Argentine viniculture. Try DOC Bar de Vinos (Cabrera 4977), Cowi (Armenia 1447) and La Malbequeria (Gurruchaga 1418).
Giving the best mixologists a run for their money is Rey de Copas (Gorriti 5176), a bar owned by the son of late Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. It’s where Argentina’s finest wines get expertly turned into tempting cocktails. Artsy types, hipsters, and courting couples convene at Boticario (Honduras 5207). This botanical-themed bar with ferns hanging from the walls serves all manner of cocktails in all shapes and sizes of glass jars.
Opened in 2021, Cochinchina (Armenia 1540) is currently on the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars. Take a seat at the horseshoe-shaped bar or a booth and order from a cocktail menu inspired by Southeast Asia and crafted using seasonal ingredients. Also on the best bar’s list is Tres Monos (Guatemala 4899). Named after the Japanese proverb of ‘see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil’, it’s a playful bar with a low-fi ambiance and (mostly) 90s soundtrack.
For an unpretentious night out, it’s hard to beat Esquina Libertad (Uriarte 1501), especially if you like sitting on a rooftop terrace and enjoying affordable cocktails. For those in the mood to drink hard and fast, they even serve basic drinks by the pint. Soria Bar (Gorriti 5151) has been pulling in the crowd for years with its large garden, living room, and terrace. It’s one of those spots where you’ll come for an early drink and stumble out in the early hours after grooving to DJ sets.
Looking for a classy spot where you need to dress to impress and smooth-talk the fashion police doormen? Isabel (Uriarte 1664) is a restaurant-cum-bar complete with chandeliers and art deco furnishings. Priding itself on the use of fresh ingredients, the food is really a sideline to the see-and-be-scene bar. Next door is Bebop Club (Uriarte 1658), which is a welcoming and intimate live music venue. Jazz, soul, and blues are the main genres, and the schedule features a range of local and international acts. There are usually two shows each night, with big international names performing at the weekend.
In recent years, the speakeasy and hidden bar scene has exploded around the city and Palermo Soho has its fair share of trendy choices. Here’s the pick of the bunch:
Past an irrelevant door at the rear of Nicky New York Sushi is The Harrison Speakeasy (Malabia 1764), one of the most revered speakeasies in B.A. It’s the creation of the owners of Franks and emulates a 1920s-style Prohibition-era bar. The bartenders turn out in dapper attire, always happy to talk you through what you’re about to drink. Penitentiary and a journey back to 1930s San Francisco is the theme at off-beat The Hole Bar - Alcatraz Speakeasy Hidden Bar (Armenia 1743). Wait for the guard to open the door before being led to the main room by police officers (costumed, of course). Once here, bartenders dressed in the iconic orange Alcatraz overalls are waiting to mix and serve drinks inspired by notorious criminals such as Al Capone and Robert Stroud.
Railroad nostalgia reigns supreme at J.W. Bradley (Godoy Cruz 1875), a mandatory stop on the speakeasy scene. Paying homage to the Orient Express and the golden age of train travel, the bar resembles an old station and is decked out in clocks and wooden seats. Shared tables create a sociable vibe for both couples and groups of friends. Drinkers can turn up and find a table, while reservations are required for diners. At the rear of La Guitarrita, an old-school pizza joint, a large door opens into a whole new universe. La Calle (Niceto Vega 4942), or The Street in English, resembles exactly as its name suggests – a street, but one with eclectic tastes. Drinks are named after and celebrate the ingredients of worldwide cities, while music sounds from the Volkswagen DJ Van.
A block away from Plaza Serrano, Cacho Rotiseria is the street facade for La Uat (Thames 1627, Palermo Soho). A curtain is all that separates the restaurant from a small, intimate dance floor and hangout for hipsters sipping on fluorescent cocktails. DJs spin everything from cumbia to hip-hop to 80s-90s pop for those who want to move. A relatively new player on the bar scene, The Rouge (Godoy Cruz 1885) transports you to Paris on a playful journey of the Moulin Rouge. From the decor to the food and drinks menu, every detail has a French touch, including a wine cellar inside the bar's very own molino rouge (red windmill).
Resembling a Victorian-era steampunk factory, Victoria Brown (Costa Rica 4827) is a long-standing cocktail bar with a dark and cozy ambiance and comfortable leather booths. A mural of HRH Queen Victoria welcomes guests and sets the scene for the fusion of industrial revolution and contemporary chic. No password is required – simply look for the door that recreates a disused storefront.
Finalmente
So, there you have it, Palermo Soho and all its colorful glory. Like it or loathe it, it’s quite unavoidable. If you’ve got work to do and like the area that much then why not spend even more time here and join the hordes of virtual workers at the numerous co-working offices.