José El Carnicero, Buenos Aires Restaurant Spotlight
The whole experience is top-notch, from the excellent service, wine list, ambiance, and fun selection of different starters and side dishes. But they overcooked my ribeye on purpose...
José El Carcinero is the new parrilla from the “Thames mafia,” as I call them, the group who own various restaurants along Thames Street in Palermo Soho. These include Niño Gordo, Chori, Paquito bar, Juan Pedro Cabellero tacos y churros, and La Carneceria. Jose the Carcinero is right across the street from La Carneceria, making it the second parrilla in their Thames lineup and the second on this same block. While La Carneceria gives a modern twist on traditional parrilla staples, José el Carnicero embraces the same idea but with a focus on the Argentine tradition of slow-cooking meats on the “spit” (la estaca in Spanish) over an open fire.
While entering the restaurant, you will see “las estacas” in action through the display window, with pork, lamb, and beef cooking slowly over the open fire. The inside of the restaurant has an excellent design, with bar seating and a view of the “asadores” upon entering, as well as a dining room in the back.
Meat is on display at various locations throughout the restaurant, with a large see-through meat cooler dividing the dining room from the bar area. The waiter explained that they age their meat around 20-25 days, just under the limit to be considered dry-aged. According to them, this is the sweet spot for maximum flavor without the “funky” taste and smell of dry-aged meat.
There are many staff members on hand with earpieces, clearly a professional operation. So the service here is top-notch, along with a dedicated sommelier to guide you on your wine choices.
The starters are a nice mix of modern twists on classic Argentine dishes like cow tongue in vinegar, which traditionally are found in rotiserias (traditional places focused on takeout home-cooked style dishes. A takeout store similar to a deli.) or bodegones (Argentine version of a Cantina). My friend and I ordered a chicken pate and the Stracciatela cheese. Both were very good. Like a lot of parrillas they also give you complimentary empanadas to start. In this case fried lamb empanadas.
Now, on to the meat: I have mixed feelings about this. Given the restaurant's name and the amount of meat on the display, I was expecting more meat options to choose from. You can order just one cut of meat off the traditional parrilla—a bone-in ribeye with truffle butter and shiitake chimichurri. And then, you can choose either slow-cooked lamb, beef, or pork from the open fire “spit.” You can order all three as a sample platter or just one. Both options come with the same amount of meat for around 40 usd and are for sharing between two people. The ribeye, around 35 usd, is also meant to be split between 2. There is also a bife de chorizo milanesa on the menu. It is also made to be shared between two and costs around 35 USD.
My friend and I wanted to sample all the meat, so we ordered a ribeye and the sample platter of meats slow-cooked on “la estaca.” When asked how we wanted the ribeye cooked, I said “chef’s preference” and assumed it would be medium-rare. The waiter said the asador suggested cooking it closer to medium, so I said, “ok.” This turned out to be a mistake. My friend and I both found the meat to be overcooked. It was medium at times but also medium-well. I am not sure of the logic behind cooking it more. The more undercooked bits had great flavor and certainly would have been phenomenal cooked medium-rare. Both my friend and I agreed we would need to return and try the ribeye again, "jugoso."
The sample platter of slow-cooked “spit” meats was good, but I have never been a big fan of this style, so I am not the best judge. Most times I have eaten it, I enjoy it, but it never blows me away. José el Carcinero was no exception.
We ordered just one side dish, an incredibly tasty humita (creamed corn), which was more than enough considering all the meat we ordered. I actually used some of it to add flavor to the overcooked ribeye.
Bottom line: Despite the overcooked ribeye (at the suggestion of the asador, no less!), I want to head back and try the ribeye again medium rare along with sampling more side dishes and starters. The whole experience is top-notch, from the excellent service, wine list, ambiance, and fun selection of different starters and side dishes. They would benefit from more meat options from the grill (parrilla).
Check out some more Buenos Aires information with our Buenos Aires Travel Guide for first-timers.
José El Carcinero
Open 7 pm to midnight Monday-Saturday. Sunday closed.
Hmm, barbecue like the Brazilian style, my favorite. Mucho appreciate this vibrantly described essay on that resterauntu're. Maybe one day we'll drop by. There's plenty to sample in the states now but authentic barbecoa in South America there would be another experience altogether.