I have been looking for a Don Julio replacement for a while. It had been a go-to parrilla spot for years until it went crazy. While it has always been touristy (At least the last ten years. When I first went, it was still a little neighborhood parrilla), that didn’t detract from its charm. It was maybe half full or less with tourists, and it wasn’t hard to get a reservation. Over the last two years, due to celebrity visits (Matt Damon, Messi, etc.) and appearances on the world's best lists (one year receiving the best steakhouse in the world), and recently receiving a Michelin star, it just isn’t worth going to anymore.
The prices are ridiculous, so tourists are the only people who go. You also can’t make a reservation. It was never the best beef in my opinion, above average at best. But the whole “Argentine parrilla experience” was exceptional, from the service, the wine lists, and the side dishes. It was a great high end Argentine dining experience that didn’t break the bank too much. Now it just isn’t worth it regarding prices, worrying about a reservation, etc. There are much better spots regarding beef quality. But what about a place that delivers the whole “Argentine parrilla experience?”
With Don Julio no longer on my radar, I've been on the hunt for a worthy successor. Madre Rojas, with its unique offerings and traditional ambiance, fits the bill.
It is in an older building on a sleepy street in Villa Crespo. I am unsure about the building's past, but I assume it has been a restaurant for many years in various incarnations. Madres Rojas retains the “old school” feel of the building’s interior like Don Julio does, with slight refinements.
The menu at Madre Rojas adheres to the traditional parrilla structure, but it's the emphasis on quality that sets it apart. Each cut of meat comes with a detailed description of its origin, breed, and diet (most cuts are grass-fed and free range grain-finished), showcasing the restaurant's commitment to transparency and high standards. The wine list is also a standout, with a unique recommendation of white wines to accompany the meat (I have never seen this before).
Their starters are mainly the traditional Argentine parrilla fair but with subtle enhancements. For example, chorizo de wagyu with onion jam. Or morcilla with green apple salad. They also have a selection of wagyu cold cuts.
Our group of 3 ordered Chipa (cheese bread), provoleta with roasted bell pepper and a wagyu fried empanada.
Their sides and salads again follow the traditional Argentine parrilla playbook but with slight sophistication that makes them stand out. We ordered an off menu Zucchini salad. This was very flavorful, with tiger milk as the dressing.
As mentioned above, wagyu meat appears on the menu frequently. Besides their selection of 6 standard non-wagyu cuts (ribeye, short ribs, flank steak, skirt steak, seasonal cut, heifer cut.), their star meat is their Corte Wagyu “Barcos&Sons.” These are cuts using the Wagyu Sekai cattle gene from Japan. Wagyu meat is more marbled (intermuscular fat) for those who don't know, resulting in a much richer and flavorful taste. But depending on the marbling grade, it can be too rich and intense.
I couldn’t resist trying their star cut and ordered their Wagyu cut of the day, NY Strip. The waitress said the marbling rating was 10, which is usually too rich for me, so I asked the asadores to show me the cut. It certainly wasn’t a ten and had just the right amount of marbling (For me, around 8), so I ordered it. The wagyu cut was fantastic.
The prices are reasonable for a parrilla of this quality. The majority of the starters and sides are under $10 USD. The six standard cuts of meat range from $24 USD to $43 USD, about a third of the price of Don Julio cuts. Like anytime you order wagyu, the wagyu cut at Madre Rojas is expensive at $65 USD. But this is still cheaper than Don Julio's standard cuts. The wine list is pricey for Buenos Aires, with most bottles being above $20 USD.
Bottom Line: Madre Rojas is my new Don Julio replacement if I want a traditional parrilla with a higher-end proposal.
Madre Rojas
Monday - Friday: 19:30 - 00:30
Saturday & Sunday: 12:00 - 16:00, 19:30 - 00:30
Reservations here.