Iguazú Falls, Argentina: The Ultimate Guide
Everything you need to know about visiting one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls.
Situated in the northeasternmost corner of Argentina, in the province of Misiones, and spilling across the border to Brazil is the spectacular Iguazú Falls. Also known as Iguassu Falls and Iguacu Falls, no matter what you decide to call it, there is no denying that this is one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls. To put it into perspective, Iguazú Falls is four times as wide as Canada’s Niagara Falls. And it’s not just one waterfall but a collection of 275 individual cascades that line a 1.7 mile (2.7 kilometers) wide horseshoe-shaped gorge.
The first inhabitants of the region were the Caingangue people, a native group from the southern provinces of Brazil. Then came the Tupi-Guaraní people. A tribal legend states that when a woman and her lover tried to escape along the river, a god cut the river in half, thus forming the falls and punishing the lovers. The name Iguazú comes from the Guaraní word for big or great water. Spanish explorer Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca became the first European to find the falls. He arrived in 1541 during his quest to reinstate the then-settlement of Buenos Aires.
Iguazú Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in 2011, it became part of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. It is part of a protected rainforest ecosystem and is split into two national parks: Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina) and Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil). Experiencing the noise of the rushing water and admiring the sheer drops of up to 80 meters (262 feet) high are obvious highlights. However, the falls and park are also home to over 2,000 plant species, around 450 species of birds, and abundant mammals. In fact, the region provides a natural habitat for half of Argentina’s birds, including parrots and toucans. Some say it’s possible to see jaguars and pumas, but you’d need to be extremely lucky. Nevertheless, sightings of crocodiles, otters, coatis, and monkeys are common.
Iguazú Falls and its surrounding region have a subtropical climate, which produces high year-round temperatures. Arguably, the best time to visit is in spring or fall. September to November are particularly good as they offer comfortable temperatures, especially if you plan to walk a lot. Temperatures are extremely hot and humid from mid-December to February. This is also when Argentines and Brazilians take their holidays, so the region gets overcrowded, and accommodation prices increase. During the southern hemisphere’s winter months, water levels are traditionally lower. If you do come at this time you’ll benefit from fewer tourists and lower temperatures. Barring a severe drought, there is never a bad time to come.
Whether arriving from Argentina or Brazil, getting to Iguazú Falls is easy. Both Puerto Iguazú, Argentina, and Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, are tourist-friendly and set up to accommodate the thousands of annual visitors. Due to its position on the Argentine-Brazilian border, the falls are often the first or last point of call for travelers in Argentina. This makes for a lasting impression regardless of whether you are starting or finishing your adventure here.
You can get here by flying to airports on both sides of the waterfalls. The flight time is around two hours. Aerolineas Argentinas, FlyBondi, and JetSmart all operate services in and out of Aeropuerto Internacional Cataratas del Iguazú. An alternative, sometimes cheaper way in peak periods, is to fly Aeropuerto Libertador General José de San Martín in Posadas and continue to Iguazu by rented car. Buses from Buenos Aires depart regularly from Retiro station with a journey time of around 18-hours. These buses are some of the most comfortable available in the country; therefore, they are an option if you have time and want to save on flights.
Visiting the Waterfalls
It is important to remember that the Parque Nacional Iguazú sits on both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the Iguazú River. Allow at least two days for your visit and try to take in both sides because each offers a different and equally spectacular perspective. On the Argentine side, you can explore walking trails that weave between the park’s tropical rainforest and experience up close the immense force of the rushing waters. The Brazilian side offers panoramic and full-frontal views of the various cascades.
Argentine Side
Upon entering the park, you will find the Centro de Interpretacion (Visitor Center). Here, you can pick up maps of walking trails and read displays about the history, climate, and geology of the waterfalls. The best way to experience the park is on foot; a guide isn’t unnecessary. However, English-speaking guides are available at the Visitor Center for individual and group tours.
Jump on the Jungle Train to the Falls Station, where you will begin two walking trails: Paseo Inferior (Lower Walk) and Paseo Superior (Upper Walk). The park entrance fee includes unlimited rides on the train. If you prefer to walk, then take the Sendero Verde (Green Trail) footpath that leads to the circuits from the Visitor Center.
The Lower Walk offers the best views from designated lookouts overlooking waterfalls such as Dos Hermanas, Salto Chico Alférez, and Salto Lanusse. The circuit is just over one mile and takes around 90 minutes. At the Salto Bossetti Observation Deck you come within touching distance of the water as it flows over the cliff into the river.
The Upper Circuit is only half a mile long and takes just over an hour to walk. It crosses the top of the canyon and allows you to look down over the edge of the falls, some of which are 60 meters (197 feet) tall. You’ll also get the chance to discover the park’s flora, including cacti and orchids. The circuit is best in the morning or sunset when rainbows appear over the river. It culminates with an uninterrupted view of Salto San Martin, the second-largest in the park.
After walking the circuits, stay on foot or catch the train to the Devil’s Throat Station. From here, it is a 1,200-meter walk on boardwalks to the star attraction, Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). A lookout area grants the opportunity to watch the water rush from the river and down an 80-meter (262-foot) high sheer drop. Nothing can quite prepare for the deafening noise and sheer power generated by one of nature’s true wonders. Watch for birds and crocodiles resting in the river en route.
Adjacent to the Visitor Center and Falls Station are cafés and snack shops, where you can purchase food and drink. You can also bring your own packed lunch and enjoy a picturesque picnic.
If you have time to return to the Argentine side for a second day, the Sendero Macuco (Macuco Trail) is an absolute must. This 3.75-mile (6-kilometer) round trip puts you in direct contact with the park’s flora and fauna. It’s far quieter than the other trails, and if you stand silent, you can hear the call of hundreds of birds. The trail runs from Central Station to a waterfall on the Arrechea stream. You can swim in the waterfall pool, so pack a swimsuit and towel.
When visiting for a second day, ask at the Visitors Center about discounted admission fees. Iguazú Jungle is a tour agency operating inside the park. It offers 4WD drives and guided walks, in addition to speed boat trips along the river and directly beneath a waterfall. If you time your visit right, you might be able to participate in a full moon walk. The 2.5-hour trip takes place over five nights every month with English-speaking guides.
This side of the park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Current admission fees are listed on the official website.
Brazilian Side
Catch a bus from Terminal de Ómnibus de Puerto Iguazú (Misiones 1-99) to visit the Brazilian side of the falls. Buses stop at the Argentine border checkpoint and will wait whilst your passport is stamped. They then continue to the Brazilian checkpoint but don’t stop automatically. Make sure to tell the driver that you need to get off. If the bus has already left, walk to the main road where you can jump on a bus to the park entrance. Holders of passports from certain countries might have to pay a reciprocal visa fee when entering or reentering Argentina. Check the current situation with your foreign office or embassy before traveling.
Whereas the Argentine side is all about getting up close and personal with the falls, you can benefit from full frontal and panoramic views on the Brazilian side. Catch the bus from the Visitor Center to the Path of the Falls. The 1,200-meter trail brings you face-to-face with the 80-meter (262 feet) drop of Devil’s Throat. This is an ideal time for taking photos. There’s also a lift that presents an aerial view of Iguazú Falls in its entirety.
If you are still feeling energetic, the Trilha Poço Preto is a 5.5-mile (9-kilometer) trail that leads through the forest to the riverbanks. Ask for a map at the Visitor Center. Consider signing up for one of the park-run tours for a more personalized visit. They include sunrise and sunset excursions, night viewings, and guided bike rides. You can also join one of several excursions offered by Macuco Safari, which range from boat rides and walks to rafting and fishing trips.
You can bring a packed lunch or dine at the food court on the Argentine side. Just beware of the groups of coati – a member of the raccoon family – that will happily steal your food while you soak up the views.
Helicopter flights over the park and falls depart from the Visitor Center. It might blow your budget and last for only 10 minutes, but it might also be the most spectacular, or only, helicopter ride that you’ll ever make. Find more information on the Helisul website or ask at the tourist information desk.
This side of Iguazú Falls is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Current admission fees are listed on the official website.
Puerto Iguazú Town
The town of Puerto Iguazú is situated about 11 miles (18 kilometers) from the falls. It’s a neat collection of small streets that spread out from the main thoroughfare, Avenida Victoria Aguirre. This is the main transport hub for visitors to Iguazú Falls. Buses from Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Corrientes and Santa Fé, among other destinations, arrive and depart at the town center Terminal de Ómnibus de Puerto Iguazú (Misiones 1-99).
To the north of town is the Río Iguazú, which marks the Argentina-Brazil border, and to the west is the Río Parana, which marks the Argentina-Paraguay border. At the confluence of the two rivers is the Hito Argentino Tres Fronteras. It's worth visiting this landmark to say that you have stood at the meeting point of three countries. Stretching east from here, Costanera Eduardo Arrabal is a pleasant waterfront promenade. Stop by the Jardín de los Picaflores (Fray Luis Beltrán 150) to see hummingbirds sip nectar from hanging bird feeders.
Activities and Outdoor Pursuits
Running southeast from the entrance to the town, Ruta 12 is home to a handful of other worthy attractions. Check out Güira Oga (Ruta 12 Km 5), a wildlife refuge for rescued animals. Tours take visitors around a collection of habitats to explain about the rehabilitation of toucan, caiman, Capuchin monkeys, and other animals. Nearby, La Aripuca ((Ruta 12 Km 4.5) is an ecological theme park that showcases the life of the Guaraní people. It features a vast house built from endangered trees, a cafe, and a craft market. To kill some spare time, you can also visit the Casa de Botellas (Av. los Inmigrantes Lote 7). It’s a house built using recycled materials such as plastic bottles and CD cases.
If you’re in the mood for adventure, head to Jungle Fly Iguazú (Tareferos 111). It has a zipline, hanging bridge, rappelling wall, and treks amid jungle landscapes. Or take a look at Iguazú Bike Tours (Selva Iriapú - La Reserva Virgin Lodge). Guided rides take you deep into the Iryapu rainforest for wildlife spotting and learning about the Guaraní culture. There’s also a cross-country tour to Paraguay and back in a day.
Further Afield
Depending on your schedule, you might want to combine a visit to the falls with a trip to San Ignacio Miní. It is home to the ruins of a 17th-century Jesuit mission. At its height, it was one of the most prosperous missions of the Misiones province. San Ignacio is about 150 miles (243 kilometers) south of Puerto Iguazú. Buses between Posadas and Puerto Iguazú stop on the outskirts of San Ignacio. Travel agencies in Puerto Iguazú operate tours to the ruins that often includevisiting Wanda, a village famed for its precious gemstone mines.
Restaurants
For delicious, freshly made croissants, muffins, alfajores, and breads, try La Croissanteria (Guarani 4). Excelso Coffee Co. (Misiones 88) and Cafe La Posta (Tres Fronteras 301) are two good spots for your caffeine fix. The latter has a delightful outdoor area filled with tropical plants and flowers. For everything from healthy breakfasts and colorful cakes to salads and sandwiches, check out LiliumCoffee Lounge (Tres Fronteras 467).
Make it your mission to visit Yabuticaba Mercadito de la Selva (Hipólito Yrigoyen 386) at least once here. A modern, European-styled market, it has stores selling regional products, a coffee shop, a chocolatier, a craft beer bar, and restaurants serving burgers, pizzas, steaks, sushi, and more. Argentine classics with a gourmet twist are on the menu at Aqva Restaurante (cnr. Cordoba and Carlos Thays). Think river fish like surubi and pacu, Patagonian lamb dishes, and yucca gnocchi.
If you want a hands-on journey through Argentina’s culinary scene, book The Argentine Experience (Brazil 57). Tourist-oriented, you’ll make your own empanadas before enjoying an upscale asado with wine pairings. There’s more sophisticated dining and exquisite meat at Jungle Restaurant (Hipolito Irygoyen). It’s part of the luxury Jungle Lodge hotel.
There’s something for all tastes on the menu at La Rueda 1975 (Cordoba 28). Expect pasta, seafood, grilled meats and a good selection of local wines. La Mamma Pastas and Salsas (Bonpland 217) knocks up hearty portions of pasta and tasty empanadas. It’s only small, so you may have to wait for a table.
You’ll also find a handful of inexpensive, no-frills steakhouses. Among the best are La Dama Juana (Av. Córdoba 42) and El Quincho del Tio Querido (Juan Domingo Perón 159). Or head to Matchia Sushi (1 de Mayo 611) for sushi rolls and Asian classics such as pad thai and ebi furai (fried shrimp).
Nightlife
Avenida Brasil is the epicenter of the town’s nightlife action and is home to pubs and resto-bars. A lively night is all-but guaranteed at Cerveza Patagonia - Refugio Iguazú (Brasil 193), and Lecker Public Bar (Brasil 155). Make your way to Rooftop Yvagá - Bar del Cielo (Paraguay 546) for cocktails, river views, and sundown DJ sets.
Elsewhere around town, Holy Iguazú (Av. Córdoba 158) has some of the best craft beers in the province. True beer lovers can tour the brewery (Ruta 12 Km 5), which has its own bar. Free-flowing beer, cocktails, soccer on big screens, and live music await at Humulus Cerveceria (Av, Perito Moreno 261).
An alternative to drinking beer is booking a table at Madero Tango Iguazú (Ruta 12 Km 2). It promises an evening of good food, wine, and even better tango shows. Or pull on a winter jacket (provided) and sip drinks at IceBar Iguazú (Ruta 12 Km 4.5). The bar and all of its installations are made from over 110,000 pounds of ice.
Where to Stay
Being one of Argentina’s top tourist destinations, you’ll encounter accommodation options to suit all budgets and styles. From backpacker hostels to swanky 5-star digs, there are hundreds to choose from around the town. However, many of the best ones are located within Reserva Selva Iryapú, a village-like jungle area between the east side of town and the Iguazú River. Most have pools, which is great after a day at the falls, and also put on shuttle services to and from the national park entrance.
Which area you prefer to stay in depends on what you want to do. Town center hotels are convenient because they are within walking distance of cafés, restaurants, bars, and the bus terminal. On the other hand, staying within the Reserva Selva Iryapú offers seclusion and ultimate relaxation.
Just a 5-minute walk from the bus terminal is the affordable Arami Hotel & Lodge (Gdor. Lanuse 262). Simple yet comfortable hotel rooms have air conditioning, WiFi, and cable television. It also has self-catering lodges for two to five people with private parking and a barbecue. Off the main road that leads in and out of town is Cabañas El Refugio del Mensú (El Dorado 313). Rustic cabins for two to nine guests sit around a verdant park. There’s a pool, games room, soccer pitch and tennis court.
For resort-style amenities without breaking the bank, check out Village Cataratas (Selva Iryapú), It’s a family favorite with spacious motel-style rooms, each with a balcony that overlooks the greenery of the jungle reserve. Guests can access a buffet breakfast, games rooms, and an outdoor pool with a bar. In town, yet away from the bustle, is Costa del Sol Iguazú (Los Malvones 80). The five fully-equipped cabins and outdoor pool have views of the Parana River.
Wake up to the jungle sounds in luxurious but affordable suites at Iguazú Jungle Lodge (cnr Hipólito Irigoyen and San Lorenzo). Rates include breakfast at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, which is open for lunch and dinner. A boardwalk trail to a 250-year-old Palo de Rosa (rosewood) tree is within the grounds. Raíces Esturión Iguazú (Av. Tres Fronteras 650) is a great centrally-located option next to the Hito Tres Fronteras monument.
Take the luxury levels up a notch in the jungle reserve at Loi Suites Iguazú Hotel (Selva Iryapú); all of the 160 rooms have rainforest views, there’s a swimming pool and an adults-only section with an infinity pool, solarium, and riverside bar. Food is available at two restaurants, and there’s a Tiki bar for drinks and evening entertainment. Almost next door, Awasi Iguazú (Selva Iryapú) is part of the upscale Relais & Chateaux group. On top of the calmness of 14 opulent villas, each vacationing group gets access to a private guide and 4WD excursions. Airport transfers and meals are also included in the nightly rates.
For the utmost indulgence in town, book at Amérian Portal del Iguazú (Av. Tres Fronteras 780). This 5-star hotel has views of the triple border, 117 rooms, two bars, two restaurants, and a spa. Deals, like 4x3 and 5x4 stays, are often available in the low season. For a stay to top all stays, consider going all out and sleeping inside Iguazú National Park at Gran Melia Iguazú (Parque Nacional Iguazú); select a ‘Falls View’ room, and you can enjoy gazing at Devil’s Throat without getting out of bed. Otherwise, you can enjoy the marvel of the infinity pool and garden.