Where to Eat and Drink in Palermo Viejo (East)
This largely residential enclave feels like a throwback. While modern development has crept in, it’s still defined by tree-lined streets, low-slung Spanish-style homes, and an unhurried atmosphere.
Palermo Viejo is the oldest part of Palermo and traditionally refers to the section south of Avenida Santa Fe. It’s where the transformation of the city’s largest barrio began in the 1980s, with locals restoring old homes and opening small cafés and boutiques along leafy streets. That bohemian spirit laid the groundwork for what is today’s Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. These are two of the city’s most touristed areas, forever buzzing with dining, design, and nightlife.
But tucked between Avenidas Santa Fe, Coronel Díaz, Córdoba, and Scalabrini Ortiz lies a quieter corner that doesn’t really have a name, and often escapes the tourist radar. This largely residential enclave feels like a throwback to a bygone era. While modern development has crept in, it’s still defined by tree-lined streets, low-slung Spanish-style homes, and an unhurried atmosphere. It’s a glimpse of how Palermo acted before it was cool, and it’s got a ton of awesome food spots to satisfy your epicurean tastes.
Restaurant Picks in Palermo Viejo
At La Alacena Trattoria (Gascón 1401), chef-owner Julieta Oriolo channels authentic Italian family cuisine at a lively corner spot. Handmade durum‑wheat pastas are stars at this Bib Gourmand trattoria. Think tonnarelli carbonara, ricotta‑spinach tortelloni, and veal ravioli with caramelized fennel. With tiled floors and wooden beams, it’s beautifully old-school Palermo. On the back of La Alacena’s success, Oriolo opened La Alacena Pastificio & Salumeria (Cabrera 4002) with Mariana Bauzá in 2022. Another bright corner locale, it’s a bakery, café, and grocery store all in one. Menu highlights include hearty schiacciata sandwiches, handmade pastas, and tempting desserts such as tiramisu and rum baba.
Set in a restored casona, El Imperfecto (Gascón 1417) is a rustic, wood‑oven bodegón paying homage to Argentina’s north. The relatively small menu features standout empanadas salteñas (fried or baked), humita a la olla, clay‑oven fish, and juicy steaks. Warm service, regional wines, big desserts like dulce de leche flan, and cozy charm make it a beloved local favorite, plus it has a great price-to-ratio. Less than a 5-minute walk away is their sister restaurant, La Imperfecta (Honduras 4416). If El Imperfecto is too busy, head here for some awesome Salta-style empanadas. Sit at the street-side bar window, order your flavor(s) of choice, and accompany it with a glass of boutique wine. Delivery is also possible.
For an upscale and theatrical take on the traditional asado, check out Fogón Asado (Honduras 3780). All the action (cooking included) takes place around the sit-at bar and grill. The food is a 9-course tasting menu with a decent amount of everything you’d expect at an asado, but with a gourmet twist. Think of pork flan steak with yellow chili sauce and morcilla (black pudding), accompanied by quince and apple chutney. Premium or sommelier-selected wine pairings can be added. At A Fuego Fuerte (Estado de Palestina 1167), chef Julio Lunghi delivers a fine dining experience with a 17-course menu. Boldly creative yet rooted in Argentine tradition, the seasonal dishes highlight local ingredients and refined techniques. Paired with premium Argentine wines, it promises a fusion of innovation, flavor, and culinary craftsmanship.
On the right side of Scalabrini Ortiz to be in the neighborhood, Gran Dabbang (Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543) is a much-loved Asian Latin fusion restaurant. The menu blends Indian, Thai, and Latin flavors in bold small plates. Think Swiss chard pakoras, lamb curry, and wood-fired pacú fish. It’s only small, and there are no reservations, so come early. And if you are three or more, just order one of everything to share. Led by chef and nutritionist Romi Stoppani and her partner Edu, Selena Cocina (Honduras 3993) is a pet-friendly spot offering creative vegan and gluten-free fare with a contemporary twist. A favorite for weekend brunch, the kitchen prepares everything from Indian chicken and artichoke panzottis to vegan cakes and standout specialty coffees.
Meat lovers unite at Cooperativa Alé Alé (Cabrera 4270), a worker-run cooperative focusing on community dining with no-frills authenticity. It’s all about big Argentine classics with generous meat cuts, huge milanesas, and an all-you-can-eat salad bar. Known for fair set-menu pricing and bustling family-style dinners, the venue is simple but welcoming. For classic parrilla vibes, don’t miss La Choza de Gascón (Gascón 1701). This is a family-friendly spot with attentive waiters and non-tourist-trap pricing. The streetside area is ideal for a long dinner on warm summer evenings or lunch beneath the heaters in winter. Besides Saturday, you can usually just show up and get a table.
More than just a restaurant, El Perón Perón (Lavalleja 1388) is a fully-fledged homage to the Peronist movement. Nearly every inch of wall space is decorated with political memorabilia and artwork, as well as tributes to Evita and Cristina Kirchner. Peronist songs and speeches are even known to blare out of the sound system. As for the food, expect robust Argentine stews, milanesas, empanadas, and Malbec served in porcelain penguin jugs. There’s another, albeit slightly subtler, politically-charged vibe at El Santa Evita (Julián Álvarez 1479). It’s pretty much an Evita sanctuary, and you can sip your wine from Kirchner-branded glasses. Whether you’re left, right, center or uninvolved, you’ll be hard pushed to find a better empanada in the barrio.
La Perinola (Cabrera 4301) is a Spanish tapas bar designed in the style of an industrial cantina with vintage decor, tango tunes, and comfort food. It’s a place to order, share, and dig into homey stews, tortillas, canellonis, and polenta-driven plates. A solid wine selection and vermouth on tap make it easy to linger, especially when the sun is beating down on the corner. Also on the tapas theme, Malasaña Bar (Acuña de Figueroa 1800) aims at bringing a slice of Madrid to a chic Palermo setting. Enticing plates range from burrata with roast peppers and camembert with pear and honey to pork flank with mango. Boutique wines, curated cocktails, live music, and DJ sets complete the experience.
Set in an old mechanic’s garage, Electrica Pizza (Julián Álvarez 1295) is your rock-and-roll sourdough pizza joint. With mechanic-themed decor, it still feels like stepping into a garage, albeit one with a wood-fired oven and top New York-style pizza. On Thursday and Friday, they sell their homemade bases to-go, should you be planning a pizza night at home. Soler Pizza Vino (Soler 4201) is Palermo’s wine-and-pizza power couple. Thin bases with crispy edges come brushed with tomato sauce and infused with everything from anchovies to bresaola (dry-aged salted beef) and stracciatella. It’s stylish yet casual, making it a favorite for date nights and hanging out with friends while sipping your way around the big wine wall.