Bariloche and the Lake District: The Ultimate Guide
We dive deep into Bariloche, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, San Martín de los Andes, Villa La Angostura, Villa Traful and the surrounding areas.
Stretching from Junín de los Andes in Neuquén to Esquel in Chubut, Argentina’s Lake District is a region of exceptional beauty. It forms part of Patagonia and runs for around 250 miles (400 kilometers) alongside the Andes. The rewards for making the 1,000-mile (1,600-kilometer) southbound journey from Buenos Aires are immeasurable: think snow-capped Andean peaks and superb alpine sports, thundering rivers, and white-water rafting trips, serene lakes, and fishing excursions, and myriad hiking trails amidst national parks.
Initially inhabited by the Pueleche and Pehuenche Indigenous groups, Spanish explorers passed through during the 16th century but never settled. Consequently, up until the late 19th century, the Mapuche people were the dominant group. Small communities of Mapuche still live in rural communities inside the national parks. The first Europeans to settle here were of German, Italian, and Swiss origin. Attracted by the similarities to the Alps, they created an Argentine-Switzerland, complete with alpine-style wooden architecture, chocolate factories, bakeries, and microbreweries.
With an average annual temperature of 59°F (15°C), you can visit the Lake District region anytime. The busiest periods are during the two Argentine holiday seasons. Locals converge on the area in July and August to ski and hit the lakes during the summer holidays of January and February. For the rest of the year, it remains a relatively low-key destination. If your schedule allows, come in either March or November when Argentines return to work. During these months, you’ll benefit from plenty of sunshine and mild temperatures in the 62-68°F (17-20°C) region.
Bariloche City
The largest and busiest city in Argentina’s Lake District, Bariloche sits at the meeting point of the provinces of Neuquén and Río Negro. It overlooks the magnificent Lago Nahuel Huapi, a lake at the heart of a national park by the same name. Surrounded by the mountains Cerro Otto and Cerro Catedral, the city is a hotbed for tourism in both summer and winter and is the unofficial vacation capital of southern Argentina. Visitors flock in hoards to enjoy hiking and trekking trips, white-water rafting and skiing, and exploring a city famous for chocolate shops and a thriving culinary scene.
Officially called San Carlos de Bariloche, the name Bariloche originates from a Mapuche word that means ‘people from behind the mountain.’ Although known to Spanish explorers, the city was inhabited by indigenous tribes for a long time. Its modern roots began towards the end of the 19th century with the arrival of German immigrants, who constructed Alpine-style buildings facing the lake. With the establishment of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi in the 1930s, Bariloche witnessed a considerable increase in tourism and development. Today, it resembles more of an urban city than a mountain town, and modern apartment blocks are slowly swallowing up the historic architecture. Nevertheless, the true beauty lies within the city’s surroundings, and in less than a 10-minute drive, you can be amidst thick forests and feel a million miles away from modern civilization.
Bariloche’s bus terminal is roughly 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) east of the city center on Luis Piedra Buena Street. Regular services connect with Buenos Aires (20 hours), Mendoza (18 hours), Puerto Madryn (13 hours), and Trelew (12 hours), among other destinations. There’s also a frequent connection to San Martín de los Andes (4 hours) and Villa La Angostura (1.5 hours). Go to the terminal to learn about departure times, or visit Plataforma10.
The city airport is 9 miles (15 kilometers) east of the center. Flights from Buenos Aires’ Ezeiza and Aeroparque airports arrive almost every half an hour. Check Aerolineas Argentinas, FlyBondi, and JetSmart for prices. Other destinations connected by air include El Calafate and Mendoza.
What to See and Do
Bariloche’s main city center attraction is the Centro Civico (cnr Av. Juan Manuel de Rosas and Panzoni). Built in 1940 by Ezquiel Bustillo, it’s a pretty complex of wood and stone buildings inspired by the architecture of Bern, Switzerland. The highlight of the complex is the Museo de la Patagonia. Here, five exhibition rooms display Bariloche’s history, natural science, and ethnography. Don’t miss the taxidermy display, which includes a deer and puma, and the section dedicated to Mapuche art, clothing, and weapons. It’s open from Tuesday to Saturday. While at the Centro Civico, pass by the tourist information center and Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi headquarters to collect information about tours and activities around the region.
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi is the oldest national park in Argentina and forms the basis of Bariloche’s tourism. It covers around 2,700 square miles (7,000 square kilometers) and is dominated by the 11,480-feet (3,500-meter) tall Tronador Volcano and the glacial-formed lake Lago Nahuel Huapi. From hiking and fishing to horseback riding and skiing, there’s certainly no shortage of things to do within the park.
The most popular excursion within the park is the Circuito Chico, a 37-mile (60-kilometer) route around the Llao Llao Peninsula that travels along the south bank of Lago Nahuel Huapi and the smaller Lago Moreno. With your car, you can easily navigate the route independently and stop to admire the views. A map of the circuit is available from the Centro Civico.
Traveling clockwise around the Circuito Chico, stop for magnificent vistas and photo opportunities at Punto Panorámico - Circuito Chico. Then, journey into the Jurassic world of Patagonia at Parque Nahuelito. Drop into Patagonia Cerveceria for lunch, a pint, and to experience a contender for the most picturesque beer garden on the planet.
Take a detour off the circuit to the Colonia Suiza Swiss village. Two immigrant Swiss families established it in 1895 after arriving from Chile. Every Wednesday and Saturday, there’s a curanto, a traditional feast prepared over hot stones. This is also where Bariloche’s chocolate-making tradition began. Spend a morning or afternoon poking around the quirky shops and eating at the open-air food court. There are a couple of reasonable camping grounds for a more extended stay.
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